Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

What is the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)?

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the world's leading, most comprehensive, and prestigious certification program for the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading, and distribution of textiles made from organic fibers (such as cotton, wool, silk, flax, etc.).

Managed by Global Standards gGmbH, this standard ensures both environmental and social responsibility criteria across the entire textile supply chain—from the post-harvest processing of raw materials to the final consumer product—through independent audit mechanisms.

Key Technical Criteria of GOTS Certification

GOTS is built on three main technical pillars that encompass all stages of textile production and processing:

1. Fiber Content and Label Grades

• "Organic": The product must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibers by weight. The remaining up to 5% may consist of specific allowed non-organic or synthetic fibers under strict limits.

• "Made with X% Organic Materials": The product must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibers by weight. The remaining up to 30% can consist of recycled or regenerated fibers allowed by GOTS, or synthetic fibers subject to specific restrictions (e.g., elastane).

2. Environmental and Chemical Management

• All chemical inputs (dyes, printing pastes, auxiliaries) used in processing must be audited for toxicity, biodegradability, and environmental impact, and must be GOTS-approved.

• The use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), heavy metals, formaldehyde, phthalates, fluorocarbons (PFCs), and chlorine bleaching is strictly prohibited.

• Wet processing facilities (dyeing, washing, finishing) must treat their wastewater through a functional wastewater treatment plant (ETP/WWTP) and monitor specific water and energy reduction targets.

3. Social Compliance and Human Rights

• Social criteria are based on the core conventions of the International Labour Organization (ILO) and due diligence principles.

• Prohibition of child labor, prohibition of forced labor, fair wages, reasonable working hours, occupational health and safety, and freedom of association/union rights are mandatory across the entire supply chain.

Scope and Certification Details

Who is it for?

GOTS is designed for all textile processors, manufacturers, importers/exporters, traders who take legal ownership of goods, and brands processing or trading textiles made from certified organic fibers and making GOTS product claims.

What is Certified?

• Processing, manufacturing, and trading of textile products containing at least 70% certified organic fibers.

• Content claims in line with label grades ("Organic" and "Made with Organic Materials").

• Facility-level chemical management, wastewater treatment, and environmental management systems.

• Social and human rights management aligned with ILO standards at certified facilities.

• Physical chain of custody verified via Transaction Certificates (TCs) throughout the supply chain.

What is Not Covered?

• Farm-level organic agriculture: The cultivation of cotton or wool at the farm level is not certified by GOTS (this requires organic farming certificates like EU Organic, USDA/NOP).

• Fiber-only content verification: If social and chemical rules during processing are not required, fiber verification falls under the OCS standard, not GOTS.

• Scope 4 chemical approvals as product certificates: A GOTS Scope 4 approval obtained by chemical manufacturers does not automatically make a textile fabric or garment GOTS certified.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the main technical difference between GOTS and OCS?

OCS verifies only the source and chain of custody (volume tracking) of the organic fiber; it does not audit chemical usage, wastewater, or social conditions in the factory. GOTS mandates strict chemical restrictions, environmental wastewater standards, and social audits in addition to fiber traceability.

Can synthetic fibers or elastane be used in a GOTS-certified product?

In the "Made with organic" grade (70–94%), certain approved synthetic or regenerated fibers can be used within specified limits. However, conventional polyester or elastane is not freely permitted; GMO-derived synthetics are banned, and elastane usage is restricted to specific functional applications and percentages.

Do traders who only buy and sell goods (without manufacturing) need a GOTS certificate?

If a trader takes legal ownership of GOTS-certified goods and intends to sell them with a GOTS claim and issue Transaction Certificates (TCs) to their customers, yes, they must hold a valid GOTS Scope Certificate.

Is using GOTS-approved dye sufficient to call our fabric "GOTS-certified"?

No. Using GOTS-approved chemical inputs (Scope 4) is a mandatory prerequisite, but it alone does not create a GOTS-certified final product. The manufacturing facility itself must hold a GOTS Scope Certificate, and the specific shipment must be covered by a Transaction Certificate (TC).

Audit Preparation & Tips

What to Prepare Before the Audit

• Valid organic farming or Transaction Certificates (TCs) for incoming organic raw fibers/yarns.

• Mass balance and stock reconciliation records showing the volume alignment between raw material inputs and outgoing GOTS products.

• A complete chemical inventory list including GOTS approval documents (Scope 4 certificates / SDS) for all wet processing inputs.

• Wastewater treatment plant (ETP) test/analysis reports and environmental monitoring records (water and energy consumption).

• Health and safety records, working hours logs, payroll records, and human rights due diligence evidence.

• List of subcontractors and proof of their certification scope permissions.

Common Audit Findings (Non-Conformities)

• Using dyes, printing pastes, or auxiliary chemicals that are not GOTS-approved on claimed orders.

• Mismatch between the calculated recipe fiber composition and the targeted label grade (95% vs. 70%).

• Cross-contamination or loss of identity between GOTS-certified and conventional batches during production or storage.

• Using subcontracted facilities (e.g., dyehouses or embroiderers) that are not included within the certified scope.

• Delay or failure in requesting matching Transaction Certificates (TCs) for shipped goods.